Pressiat RTW Spring 2023 – WWD

Inspired by a fictional meeting between Iggy Pop and Marilyn Monroe, Vincent Garnier Pressiat dressed the queens of the night across the gender spectrum.

For his first scheduled presentation in Paris, he offered them everything from dresses that trailed the floor with a breezy train to disembodied numbers that left little to the imagination, like a look composed only of thin silver chains.

Elsewhere, he mixed 1950s and Victorian tropes, transforming any notions of elegance into provocative statements. Corsets were revisited with snakeskin motifs and juxtaposed with a half pencil skirt that left one side exposed, or patent leather pants and chains. A cocoon knit dress had a neckline so low it revealed the belly button.

Scattered among the decadent dresses and tattered knitwear were a handful of pieces that passed for off-the-rack offerings, like a ripped-up T-shirt or a suit covered in tulle that was cut into ribbons, creating an uneven pinstripe effect.

Even with these, it was difficult to reconcile commercial realism with its boisterous cast, even in a season when designers dare to bare their bare chests and be bold in their castings. But with the increasing number of famous faces – and curves – turning to him for one-of-a-kind showstopping numbers, does he really need to scale down his extravagance to fit on a retail shelf? Pressiat RTW Spring 2023 – WWD

Sarah Y. Kim

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