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Olympian Marcell Jacobs takes a fashion break with Dsquared2

MILAN – Caught between the pandemic and war in Europe, Milan’s luxury fashion designers open four days of mainly menswear previews for next spring and summer on Friday in a challenging economic climate.

Runway shows have mostly returned to the pre-pandemic, tight-seated live format, but a longed-for return to normal has once again been delayed.

Russia’s invasion of Ukraine has pushed up energy and commodity prices, threatening a growth trajectory that took revenue to its highest pre-COVID levels in the first half of this year. Despite the uncertain outlook, the industry forecasts sales of 92 billion euros, a 2% increase from pre-pandemic levels in 2019 and 10% more than 2021.

“Depending on where the margins fall, we risk losing,” said Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s National Chamber of Fashion, or CNMI.

Here are some highlights from the start of a shortened fashion week on Friday with around 25 runway shows:

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DSQUARED2 WAVE RIDES

“Waves are coming in seven and we’re at number 3,” Dean Caten said backstage after he and twin brother Dan unveiled their latest collection for their Milan label Dsquared2. “We have all kinds of waves. We can have some lucky waves I hope.”

The Canadians presented an upbeat vision for their spring-summer 2023 collection, which was inspired by a Bob Marley mishmash of 1970s hippies and surfers.

The men’s collection gave plenty of room for personal expression, from floral sarongs to linen pants, studded leather jackets to neoprene tops, loose lightweight beach pants to flowing anoraks. Suit jackets found a place over loose parachute pants. Patterns and colors collided happily as soothing aqua azzurra was offset by neon salmon and faded to pastels.

“It’s very powerful, very peaceful. I think in these times we just need to share the love. There are too many negative things around us. And the 1970s was peace and love,” Dean said.

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Looks were beaded, topped with knit beanies or wide-brimmed beach hats, while footwear ranged from chunky sandals with slouchy socks to colorful docksiders and hiking boots.

In the beach world of Dsquared2, shirts are optional, as Italian Olympic sprinter Marcel Jacobs demonstrated in the front row with his tattoos under a leather jacket. He stripped it off backstage to show off some of his latest tattoos: Mount Fuji and a Japanese temple on his left arm in honor of the Tokyo Games, where he won gold.

“Tomorrow I’ll be back in training and next week I’ll be off to the worlds,” said Jacobs, who will be competing July 15-24 in Eugene, Oregon.

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MILAN FASHION CHALLENGE TO THE OPEN FORMAT

The contrast between the quiet, exclusive nature of Milan Fashion Week and the exuberance of its premier design week has never been more stark than this year.

The Milan Furniture Fair and accompanying events at Fuori Salone that make up Design Week closed just days before Fashion Week opened, drawing 400,000 visitors over six days.

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Small Italian fashion brands not normally seen during Fashion Week are now pushing to open them up to a wider audience, with accompanying events similar to Design Week.

“Let’s not lose this energy. Let’s make it fashionable. I firmly believe that there could be a kind of Fuori Salone, call it what you will,” said Gigliola Maule, President of the Milan Chamber of Commerce for Showrooms, which represents showrooms for small and medium-sized brands.

The proposal received the backing of the city’s economic development officer, Alessia Cappello, who had called for talks with the CNMI Fashion Chamber to discuss formats.

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https://www.local10.com/entertainment/2022/06/17/olympian-marcell-jacobs-takes-fashion-break-with-dsquared2/ Olympian Marcell Jacobs takes a fashion break with Dsquared2

Sarah Y. Kim

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