Matty Bovan revitalizes Milanese fashion, Armani offers elegance

MILAN – Milan Fashion Week ended on Sunday after five days of mainly womenswear previews celebrating diversity and renewal, with more designers of the color than ever before and a host of new talent making their debuts in major fashion houses.

The Italian moderator promoted sustainability with the return of the Green Carpet Awards on Sunday night, recognizing advances in practices that reduce waste in the industry and its carbon footprint.

As the fashion world raised awareness of sustainability, this season’s calendar presented unsustainable routes between shows, forcing fashion audiences to travel back and forth multiple times in one day in an already gridlocked city. Even cycling proved a challenge with few bike lanes on the routes.

Fashion week drew to a close as Italians headed to the polls for an unusual general election that could push Italian politics sharply to the right, something many in the fashion world are thinking, who have championed migrant rights and a law against hate crimes would criminalize homosexuals, women and the disabled.

Giorgio Armani voted early while he was still preparing the finishing touches for his runway show and appearance at the Green Carpet Awards. Asked about the elections, he replied: “That it will be a productive day. Stop.”

Some highlights from Sunday, the closing day of Milan Fashion Week:

MATTY BOVAN’S “SHAPESCIFTER”

“This is new energy for Milan,” enthused Stefano Gabbana backstage for British designer Matty Bovan. “Bravo,” interjected Domenico Dolce.

Bovan, who just made his Dolce & Gabbana-sponsored debut at Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, was still blushing after sprinting up and down the runway in a physical display of his energy, which is being poured into his new collection on a creative level was caught.

“I’m exhausted,” Bovan previously confessed to fashion journalists. “I haven’t run like this in years.”

Bovan said his colourful, definitely energetic and fantastical collection reflects “English surrealism at its best”.

Working with Dolce & Gabbana gave him access to the design duo’s studios, and Bovan was still amazed by the quality of their craftsmanship. “I’ve never seen work like this before. I have never had access to such work. It’s just an order of magnitude,” he said.

The faithful Milanese also make handbags, denim and corsetry, about 90% of which Bovan embroidered, crocheted or painted with his own hands.

The looks were completed with predominantly deadstock materials from his previous collections, including bold geometric sequin prints and knitwear, which he fashioned into overlapping, layered skirts and ruffles that were by no means exclusive to women. And he threw in some Matty Bovan adorned gold brocade, as mermaid skirts and ruffled capes.

Dolce & Gabbana jeans were ripped, torn, patched with embroidery and painted. Their bags were painted and carried backwards. And the reissue corsets in special colors and sizes gave shape to the looks.

Bovan said Dolce & Gabbana’s take on femininity paired well with what he described as his own “very twisted femininity”. So it was a really fun collaboration.”

THE GOLDEN THREADS OF GIORGIO ARMANI

Giorgio Armani’s collection for next spring/summer was a study in shimmering elegance.

The collection started with pearly white and shifted to muted blues, greens and grays – all centered around a notion of spiritual calm.

This harmony was evident in the soft construction, layers of translucent materials that draped and moved with the form. In a kind of alchemy, trousers looked like skirts and skirts looked like trousers. As a bolder palette came into focus, some skin began to show: a long linen shirt demurely opened to reveal some torso over chocolate brown pants. Beaded jackets paired with floaty trousers and mandala prints brought to life a range of formal daytime looks with silk trousers.

The collection culminated in crystal-accented looks in the shimmeriest of whites, each a meditation on what fashion means to the spirit.

“I can’t make a dress without at least a little glitter,” the 88-year-old designer said after the show.

REMANUFACTURE OF BENETTON FROM THE KNITWEAR UP

Benetton launches another remake, this time under the creative direction of Andrea Incontri, a Milanese designer with experience at a variety of fashion houses including Tod’s.

An architect by training, Incontri is keen to redesign Benetton’s retail experience and vacated the flagship store on Corso Buenos Aires for his runway debut as creative director.

Upstairs, his new collection – replete with colourful, repeating motifs, pretty mélange knits and tweeds – hung on a bare, tiled wall in well-curated, easy-to-overview constellations.

To underscore its desire to start with the consumer, Incontri staged the runway show on the ground floor for passers-by to take a look.

The modern silhouette includes culottes – a hot trend in Milan for next spring and summer – and leather obi belts shaping crisp cotton dresses or equivalent cotton shirt-shorts sets for men if they’re feeling so bold.

The brand’s famous knitwear comes in a pretty mélange that’s easy to layer. A bra top adds a modern twist to a ribbed tunic and pants that’s as cozy as it is chic. Knit biker shorts transform a tweed skirt and jacket into active daywear. Fruit motifs create a cornucopia of mix-and-match looks: the red, pink and yellow tones of cherries, pears and apples harmonize happily with green, sky-blue and yellow backgrounds.

Incontri has given Benetton’s octopus logo a much-needed graphic update, used it sparingly and designed necklaces with the B and E for Benetton in the spirit of personalization loved by Gen-Z. After just six months on the job, Incontri promises an even deeper makeover for the 57-year-old brand, which has endured bouts of malaise.

While Benetton’s heyday is strongly linked to Oliviero Toscani’s socially forward United Colors of Benetton advertising campaigns, Incontri aims to put the product and the consumer first.

“This is a brand that, like many Italians, I hold dear because I grew up with it,” Incontri told reporters.

FERRARI CLOTHING GAINS TRACTION

Supercar maker Ferrari’s foray into luxury goods is resonating with its high-end car buyers, as hoped, but also with Formula 1 fans whose garages don’t quite have the horsepower.

Rocco Iannone, creative director of Ferrari’s clothing line, said he saw the effect during the Italian Grand Prix at Monza earlier this month. Many Formula 1 fans bought expensive, custom-made Ferrari clothing and showed up the next day at the circuit “with badges and all the iconic elements”.

“I would like to tell this mixture: they exist and we want to give them a wardrobe,” said Ianonne.

Iannone’s third collection focuses on what Ferrari’s creative director called “native materials”: leather, denim, cotton and silk.

The new collection combines pieces that Formula 1 fans would covet, including racing overalls and pit jackets embellished with iconic patches, as well as elegant statement pieces that embody Ferrari’s technological drive with more subtlety.

Jacquard cargo pants are made from recycled nylon and give it a camouflage look. The denim is technological, each piece is treated with ozone sprays to achieve a colorful stone-washed effect without the usual environmental damage. And nappa glove leather is used to make supple leather jumpsuits in deep red with orange undertones or black.

“The goal is to embrace the soul of Ferrari through a sharp, precise and mixed wardrobe,” said Iannone.

TRUSSARDI’S TRANSFORMATION

The Berlin-based designers, who have taken on the creative direction of Milan-based fashion house Trussardi, say they are driving a transformation that is “non-linear and chaotic”.

“It’s a meeting of magic and realism, past and future, dream and pragmatism, modernity and heritage,” said Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby of their intense attempt to restructure Trussardi.

As sectarian as designers can get as they unveiled their second Trussardi collection on Saturday at Milan’s neoclassical Clerici Palace, one of the most beautiful and ornate spaces in the city.

The collection combines Trussardi classics with urban looks that embrace both pragmatism and streetwear.

The designers behind the GmbH brand made the polo shirt the battle horse of the Trussardi collection, but combined it in daring combinations, such as a culotte pullover shorts in shiny leather with a racing front. More demure, the polo shirt featured a square neckline that could be demurely unbuttoned and paired with Bermuda shorts and a fanny back, perfect for a day on the town.

Jersey-cut dresses draped the body, while bulky crocodile leather and slim-fitting denim provided urban armour.

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https://www.local10.com/business/2022/09/25/benetton-ferrari-close-milan-fashion-week-with-bold-moves/ Matty Bovan revitalizes Milanese fashion, Armani offers elegance

Sarah Y. Kim

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