Cormio RTW Spring 2023 – WWD

This was a frenetic show with models escorting toddlers and in one case a sleeping newborn down the catwalk; a showroom in a bohemian private home with a rabbit warren of rooms and a collection of clothing that was both silly and spectacular.

Jezabelle Cormio doesn’t take a conventional approach to shows. Her invitation came as a Polly Pocket Dollhouse, a tiny doll toy loved by children in Italy. She also challenged young children to accompany a motley group of adults down the catwalk, which was outfitted with bugaboo strollers and car seats.

The most adorable moment on the show, which Cormio described as “an ode to the scattered madness of a modern and diverse family … quiet and chaotic,” was when a toddler — fast asleep — emerged in a small car seat, dangling by the arm of a model.

So much for the bright lights and big sounds of fashion.

The clothes had to compete hard with the whole staging and the clear winners were the knitwear presented to children and adults alike by Cormio, who made a name for herself after being selected by Gucci to take part in GucciFest 2020.

Her knitwear featured puff sleeves and embroidery, and came in sweet pastel colors like lavender and primrose. The strapless, striped and star-printed tops and dresses had more of a disco vibe and were upbeat and fun in equal measure.

The collection, which also included loosely corseted dresses, 18th-century-inspired culottes with ties at the knees, and tiny ruffled skirts, were all inspired by fairytale clothing and Cormio’s desire to meld “the pretend with the real.”

It was too busy here, and it was often overwhelming, but at least it didn’t let anyone sleep, save for the youngest runway model.