Andrea Pompilio had a domestic feel that permeated his spring collection, his thoughts on togetherness and family morphing into an obsession with old-school lingerie.
Shying away from the ubiquitous sensual trend, he offered lingerie as the only flourish to an otherwise minimalist collection. Open-weave knits have been made into strapless nude midi dresses, rib-knits have been made into short V-neck dresses with built-in bras, and girdles have given a bohemian touch to wild blazers with window panes. A charming shawl dress was created from the layering of chiffon panels tied together by ribbons knotted at the shoulders.
Men sported a bed-to-street look, too, with knitted sets and lengthened shirts reminiscent of grandpa’s nightgowns. Elsewhere, fitted blazers were paired with rib-knit shorts, while anoraks and work suits were unhemmed and washed.
The designer, who juggles between his own brand’s studio and Onitsuka Tiger’s exhibition space (he’s also the Japanese label’s creative director), said that this collection is “about emotion and a return to beautiful things, well done”. Only something new was missing.
https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2023/milan/andrea-pompilio/review/ Andrea Pompilio RTW Spring 2023 – WWD